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  1. #1
    Puppy (New Member)

    Current Great Pyrenees Owner

    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Lenoir nc
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    Default New member needing help!

    Good afternoon everyone. Hope you are all doing well! Back in November I got my first ever Great Pyrenees dog! We rescued her. Her old owner was going to take her to animal shelter due to her been so big and needing attention! My husband took her and brought her home. Until that day I had never heard of a Great Pyrenees. She is mixed with boxer we was told. Doing research I found that they are great dogs and so forth. So here we are two months later. We was told she turned a year old in January. She is a great dog and I would never let her go anywhere. I have a 9 year old and 7 year old daughter! Our issue is. She pulls on leash. She will pull you over if you arenít careful. She also does what I believe is a nerves nibble! When she plays with you she will nibble. Itís not a bite she just sticks her mouth on you to kind of get your attention! She is scaring my daughters with doing this. We are working on the pulling on leash. But I am lost on how to get her to stop nibbling! We have tried giving her toys and bones and stuff and she eats them in just a few minutes. She also chews on covers. Someone please help me! Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Old Dawg (Senior Member) Jewel's Avatar

    Current Great Pyrenees Owner

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
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    4,857
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    Congrats on your new girl! Well, I think both issues you mentioned can be worked with.

    For the nibbling, here is a method to teach her an alternative to nibbling. We call this the "peanut butter method" and people have had good results with this.

    Here is the peanut butter method from one of our members, TexasKat:

    The peanut butter method works pretty well. In addition, the whole family can participate. Here's the basic process:

    Look for opportunities (if your puppy nips) while you are at home to teach him or her that it is not acceptable behavior. It's important enough have a few training sessions to create the opportunity for him to learn acceptable behavior just like if you were teaching your pup any other skill -- like "sit" or "stay".

    Some people have used the technique of pressing the dog's outer lips against their teeth to teach their dog not to nip -- this may work when the puppy is 'in the act", but we trained ours using peanut butter (but you could use something else that's smeary and yummy) to modify the behavior to something more acceptable rather than try extinguish it altogether.

    It works best with very young pups rather than older ones, so your mileage may vary, but here goes:

    In any situation where the pup is prone to nip, have a jar of peanut butter handy. This works best if you're sitting on the floor with the pup. Smear a little bit on your fingers on one hand (to start) -- just enough for the flavor, not a big glob. Present your unpeanut-buttered hand first. If your pup nips at your fingers (they often bite at fingers first) remove the hand, correct him with "No Bites" or some other verbal correction and present the peanut buttered one. Most pups will lick at peanut butter, but if he continues to bite your fingers on the PB hand, remove it from his reach and tell him "No Bites". Give it a few seconds and repeat. Once he begins to lick your fingers instead of biting, reinforce his behavior and give it a name for him to remember ("Kisses" or something like that). Praise him like he's just won the Nobel Peace prize.

    After a few sessions where he's correctly responded to peanut-buttered fingers, smear a bit on your cheek (Yeah, I know... messy). If he responds with licking ("Kisses") praise him -- lots and lots of praise. If he bites at your ears (a favorite target of my pup's), push him back with "No bites" and start with the fingers again.

    Lastly, if your pup learns this behavior well, you can even use it when your dog is greeting other people (use the command 'kisses'). It refocuses their attention and gives them an acceptable response in a sometimes confusing (for the pup) situation. You won't even need get their kissy targets all smeary with peanut butter.

    As for the pulling, there are various tools you can use. You can try the no-pull harness. I've never used it but I understand the leash clips at the front of the harness and it is effective. There is also the prong collar. The objective is for the dog to learn on its own that if it pulls, the prongs will dig into its neck. You must not yank on that collar because it then becomes YOU punishing the dog rather than the dog learning that it has the option of choosing to walk at your pace or pull and cause the prongs to dig in. Another option is the head halter. With the head halter you must also remember never to yank on the head collar or you can hurt the dog's neck. You may also need to introduce the head collar slowly and in a positive way.

    Lastly, you can simply train your dog to walk at your pace by standing still each and every time the dog pulls. This method is proven to work but it takes a lot of time and patience. Basically when you start walking your dog, if the dog pulls ahead, you simply stop and stand still like a tree. You will not move until the dog decides to walk back to you and slack the leash. The moment the dog turns back to you, you can start walking again. But the moment the dog pulls the leash taut, you stop. It is effective, but it will require a lot of time just standing still and not get frustrated.

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